The Guardian
Featuring about 800 camel- and black-clad guests, a runway lined with spindly gold chairs, a battery of photographers and a pumping soundtrack, the live catwalk show is an unmistakable cultural phenomenon – but one under increasing threat.
The fragile state of the economy in the US and elsewhere means that designers are having to fight even harder for critical and commercial success. New York fashion week alone is expected to generate $770m (£500m) over the year for the city. But as designers unveil their collections for spring 2011, a question mark hangs over the future of the catwalk formula in the face of technological advances, scheduling complications and infighting.
British brand Burberry, due to show during London fashion week in nine days’ time, is leading the charge with its quest to speed up the fashion cycle.
Earlier this week the label announced a new concept, dubbed Burberry Retail Theatre. When the new collection is launched the show will be broadcast live to 25 of its stores worldwide. The invited customers will then be able to browse the collection on iPads and buy selected outerwear and handbags immediately for delivery in seven weeks’ time. It is hoped this move will shorten the usual six-month cycle of buying and production. Burberry is at the forefront of catwalk live-streaming, which has been embraced by big brands including Prada and Dolce & Gabbana over the past two seasons.
Fears about insensitive scheduling have caused problems. The New York event was criticised for scheduling several catwalk events during the Jewish festival Rosh Hashanah earlier in the week, but the Council of Fashion Designers of America asserted that it had no option but to clash with the Jewish holiday. The New York Times has reported that a synagogue close to the Lincoln Centre was offering services for fashionistas stuck at the shows.
Milan fashion week has raised eyebrows over its decision to beef up its schedule. Last season the event was squeezed after Anna Wintour, the editor of US Vogue, announced she would only attend the event for three days, forcing designers to reshuffle their shows, and smaller designers to miss out on media coverage.
This season the heavyweight brands with major advertising clout, such as Armani and Gucci, have spaced themselves out evenly, elongating the event and forcing editors and buyers to stay in the city for longer.
Giorgio Armani praised the changes, stating that it demonstrated “that we Italians, if we really want it, are perfectly able to assert ourselves”. As a result the Milanese event starts before London fashion week is officially over, clashing with a final day of menswear shows.
As a result of these challenges each of the four fashion cities – New York, London, Milan and Paris – are seeking to increase their individual appeal. Both Milan and New York boast shiny new venues.
Next weekend guests at London fashion week will attend shows sponsored by Topshop at the old Eurostar terminal in Waterloo station. The city will host a range of events, from big catwalk shows by Burberry to smaller shows by brands that are growing in influence, including Erdem.
Paris fashion week is expected to play to its creative strengths. There will be a strong showing for British names. This season Sarah Burton will show her debut collection for the Alexander McQueen label and Giles Deacon will debut his collection for Emanuel Ungaro, the label that was openly criticised in recent seasons for employing Lindsay Lohan as its artistic adviser. These names will join British stars who already show in Paris, including Stella McCartney, Gareth Pugh and Phoebe Philo for French luxury brand Céline.
Highlights
New York (9-16 September)
Tommy Hilfiger will celebrate his 25th anniversary in the business. Victoria Beckham will add handbags to her label’s repertoire. Tom Ford is to debut his first ever womenswear collection.
London (17-22 September)
Samantha Cameron’s favourite label Erdem will showcase his spring collection. Giles Deacon’s own label returns to London after a stint in Paris and Miriam Clegg will make her first LFW appearance to open EcoLuxe an ethical luxury showcase.
Milan (22-28 September)
“Unmissables” include Prada, Armani, Gucci ,Versace and Dolce and Gabbana.
Paris (29 September to 7 October)
Sarah Burton will show her debut collection for Alexander McQueen, Giles Deacon will debut at Emanuel Ungaro and the most influential designer of the moment, Phoebe Philo, unveils her latest collection for Celine. The high street seamstresses will be paying strict attention.
